BUZZ: Le Sauvage Opens in Paris, London Gallery & Raffles Royal Monceau News

9 September 2011 by Margaret Kemp    1262  
BUZZ: Le Sauvage Opens in Paris, London Gallery & Raffles Royal Monceau News
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Sauvage, Paris 8th The new concept of Julien Weydert and Marie Sauvage is Sauvage, a buzzing neo-bistro. The former Le Fin Bec was under the same management for 30 years. Today the small but welcoming space has been completely transformed by the très talented architect/designer Stéphane Poux, who also did 154 Haussmann. Pink, turquoise, light wood, huge chandeliers, and a photo wall of friends make this bistro bright and beautiful. In the cellar, excellent wine; above, illuminating skylight. Young talent Antoine Bertho (ex-Robuchon, Renoma Café) is wearing the whites, although in his case it’s the blacks, en homage to his mentor JR. Brittany-born “Bertho” says he’s exploring new ideas, using the freshest seasonal products chosen from artisan suppliers with great care. “The menu is short and sweet,” he explains. “You should beware of restaurants that have huge menus, it’s bound to be mostly sous-vide. There’s nothing wrong but it’s not very artisanal, is it? There are only two of us in the open kitchen, so we don’t need to use sous-vide,” he continues. “My ingredients arrive daily and I translate them in my style. I learned so much from Monsieur Robuchon; I have worked in all three of his Paris restaurants. It’s a training of precision and love,” he admits. Asian influences are evident in dishes such as Spring Roll de thon aux herbes fines and salade de boeuf thai. Suprême de poulet fermière faҫon Thai sauce cacahuètes. Also try paper-thin carpaccio with sweet almond milk. Coddled eggs piperade style, emulsion of spicy pork sausage; Sea bass grilled on one side, sauce Thai, or tender, caramelized Pays Basque pork breast. I’m also proud of my millefeuille de légumes aux burrata et basilic,” he admits . (see photo). There’s a choice of vegetables with each dish: Lentilles verte de Puy au Lard. Mélange de salade bio de Bretagne, vinaigrette aux céréales, polenta crémeuse or melt-in-your-mouth potatoes drizzled with thyme butter. Perhaps Tome de Brebis, homemade cherry jam, fig or lemon tart, tarte tatin and thick cream. Or café gourmand, a generous tray of coffee, Financiers, chocolates and bonbons. The room is managed by Nicolas Frezouls, a former BNP financier who prefers to welcome his bankers, lawyers and captains of industry at Sauvage than across a desk. “It’s stress,” he admits. “But of a different kind.” Le Sauvage Tél: 01 45 22 22 46 7, rue Roy, Paris 8th Métro: Saint Augustin Open: Monday-Friday Lunch Lunch: about €30 Dinner Wednesday, Thursday or Friday Dinner : 3 dishes “La Chronique” €38; 5 dishes “L’Escapade” €55. following chef’s inspiration and your wishes. And check out Fra Angelico and the Masters of Light exhibition at the Musée Jacquemart-André Sept. 22 through Jan. 16, 2012   London: The Gallery London The bad news is that, after more than 125 years, Connolly Leather has ceased trading. Their tanned hides knew only the best bums, covered automobile seats in cars owned by the English Royal Family, Rolls Royce & Bentley, Ferrari, Aston Martin, Jaguar, and Lotus, to name but a few. Over the years: The House of Commons, The House of Lords, The British Museum, QE2 and as many prestigious hotels and buildings worldwide used Connolly cuir. The good news is that their former showroom on Conduit Street is now The Gallery, a super-chic 100-seat brasserie/bar open daily from breakfast 7am until after the theatre at 1am. Alex Kravetz may have used some Connolly leather leftovers for the plush banquettes, but frankly I was more interested in the eclectic menu than the décor, although it’s very posh and glam. Quality and price are good, considering the location. Pop in when you’re shopping on Bond, Regent or even on Conduit Streets. The welcome is warm, food by head chef Brian Fantoni (ex-Cantina del Ponte Tower Bridge) is terrific. Toasted fresh sardines with salad Niçoise. Salt cod brandade, caper dressing. Truffle baked free-range eggs. Mains of Poached Scottish Lobster, baby leeks, potato gnocchi, orange and lobster dressing. Beef rib eye; Beef Daube; Speck-wrapped rabbit with polenta, pine nut and raisin dressing. Pastas: Salads and Daily Specials. Desserts include: Baked Lemon Tart and Valrhona dark chocolate and olive oil parfait. The wine list is epic: French and world. Why not toast the passing of Connolly with Taylor’s late bottled vintage port (£45). During the meal the Tuscan 2009 Sangiovese di Toscana. Poggio del Sasso. Cantina di Montalcino (£29). The Gallery London at Westbury Mayfair Tel:  +44 (0) 20 77 89 5777 41 Conduit Street, London W.1 Average spend: 2 courses £19 – 3 courses £23 News: Raffles Royal Monceau Charitable Auction Raffles Royal Monceau has taken its place in the hearts and minds of a chic international clientèle a year after opening. Pop in for a drink, browse in the boutique and art gallery, or taste Laurent André‘s sublime cuisine in the Starck-decorated La Cuisine. A disciple of Ducasse and Chapel, André traveled the world seeking new flavors and savours. Last week he was in the hotel’s lush leather-seated cinema where auction house Artcurial put a limited-edition Bulgari Chronosport Endurer All Blacks Watch and other cult rugby-themed objects under the hammer just before the Rugby World Cup kicks off in New Zealand. “It’s for the benefit of “Les Nations du Rugby pour Christchurch,” explained André, a rugby fan. “They raised a…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !