Burgundy On A Budget Dinner

  With the prices for fine Burgundy wines continuing to spiral, Todd Ross of Mills Wines in Annapolis (www.millswine.com) worked with Cynthia’s Restaurant in Severna Park (www.cynthiassevernapark.com), to create a memorable dinner, whose theme, “Burgundy On A Budget,” ensured an appreciative crowd. The location is Maryland, but the idea can be duplicated anywhere. And it should be!               Five courses were paired with recent Burgundy wines, and their tasting prices are noted. The dinner itself, at $99 per person, was a good bargain in these days of vintage wine dinners that cost twice or three times that figure. And many of them are not as much fun as this one was!               First, the passed Hors D’Oeuvres were delicious, just out of the oven. Served with a fine dry rose wine, Domaine Roblet-Monnot Rosae MMVI ($13.99), they numbered a half dozen delights, including Foie Gras Terrine on Country Crouton, Oven Dried Tomato & Chevre Canapes, and, for an introductory Amuse Bouche, Smoked Salmon on Rosti Potato with Chive Creme Fraiche (which was melt in your mouth perfect).               Everything was so good that one had to hold back – after all, the dinner itself hadn’t begun yet! The wine, which was bottled at Volnay, was quite nice, dry, with sufficient body to hold up to the various flavors of the foods that accompanied it.               The First Course, Escargot in Warm Garlic Broth with Frisee and Crisps, was delicious and, thank heavens, cooked through just right. (Having once been served, in France, an escargot that was still frozen, I always am a bit anxious when this treat is served!) It was served with a Chateau de la Greffiere Macon La Roche Vineuse 2006 ($11.99), and a Domaine Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc 2004 ($22.49).               The Macon, from a village near that town, had nice body and was smooth all the way through. It was an astonishing value, worth much more than its cost. The Bourgogne Blanc had more substantial body, a wine with a greater quality of depth. Worth searching out.               The Second Course was Seared Diver Scallop with Wilted Spinach and truffled Potato Cream. It was served with Domaine de la Chapelle Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($23.99) and Domaine Servin Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux 2005 ($27.69).  The Scallop was done just right, and that is no easy matter. It was not underdone (the usual problem, we’ve found), and just melted in the mouth.               Todd told us that the Domaine de la Chapelle is from a very small producer, rather “old and exotic,” with one-third of the wine aged in new barrels, and the rest in tanks. That is not an unusual compromise with white Burgundy wines, where the tradeoff tends to be richness of flavor (the oak) and fine dry taste (steel aging). I found this wine was excellent, somewhat piercing, but nowhere near its best yet. That will come with aging. The Chablis comes from a Premier Cru which is next to the famed Les Vaillons, and it is now being brought back after many years of neglect. A good effort, but for now, I’ll stick with Les Vaillons!               The Third Course, a fine Coq au Vin, with Whipped Yukon Potatoes and Candied Carrots, was served with two red wines, Domaine Bertagna Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits “Les Dames Huguettes” 2004 ($21.69), and Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee Halinard 2004 ($46.49). These were more substantial wines which suited the food well. Todd thought that the Domaine Dugat is one of the greatest winemakers now in Burgundy, with very small production and one of the oldest cellars. (It is said to be the cellar of a thirteenth century abbey.) I suspect that the wine may also be unfiltered, which should be disclosed for those few who may experience allergic reactions to unfiltered wines.               The Cheese Course featured three French cheeses (“always three” my Bordeaux friends would insist) with two Beaujolais wines from the fine 2005 vintage: Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Cuvee Traditionelle Vieilles Vignes ($13.49), and Daniel Bouland Vieilles Vignes ($15.69). These are certainly worth trying, as wine producers seek alternatives to the Beaujolais flavors that we all savor over the summer’s heat. But I’m not quite a convert. “Dumbed down” or not, I like most Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais wines, which are fresh, flavorful, and no more challenging than a mystery novel at the beach!               Dinner concluded with a nice Peach Tatin with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. I’m sorry the nineteenth century Tatin Sisters went through financial distress, but delighted that this family recipe, which saved their home, lives on to delight our palates today.             Thanks to our hosts, who put together an imaginative, well cooked and presented menu, with an imaginative wine selection. It was good preparation for fall dinners to come!