Bocuse Marriages and Food Pleasure

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Bocuse Marriages and Food Pleasure
Paul Bocuse, the “Pope” of French Cuisine, is quoted by Leo Fourneau in Bon Appétit, Messieurs, Paris, Editions Grasset, 2006, 260 pp. 16.90 €, as saying, very roughly translated, that “A couple, driving up from Lyon, who have just had a violent argument, cannot possibly appreciate their subsequent meal, no matter how good.”  Now, leaving aside the fact that this Pope has had several wives/mistresses and “close” female friends simultaneously and knows his women, I respectfully disagree. Let me give an example.  Colette and I went to an incredible Slow Food aka 2007 Osterie d’Italia Restaurant Guide recommendation in Rome called Tram Tram a while back and on the way had a horrible fight about the usual – leaving our friends’ apartment late, arriving at the resto late and the best way to get there.  Both of us were pissed off, heated up and “off,” if not our feed, at least our moods.  Thus Bocusianwise, we should not have been able to fully appreciate our meal.  But, to the contrary, it was fabulous, inventive and warm. What happened?  Well, after stumbling to find the place in the charming San Lorenzo quarter, we chanced upon it.  We entered and immediately realized that this place was special; full of students, professors, in-betweens, doctors and laborers.  We were ushered to our table and the very atmosphere of hustle and bustle, laughter and drinking, warmth and friendliness, melted any ill-will that had been generated between us outside the door. We both really believe in the “When in Rome” strategy and we ordered what looked good on other the tables around us.  I started with fresh fried sardines that were simply, there’s no way around it – divine!  Then Colette had pasta with tiny diced swordfish bits, eggplant and tomato and I had a pasta with clams, a lot of pepper and pureed broccoli – both so totally different from what we’d ever had in Rome or elsewhere.  We then shared a main of giant shrimp and squid (roasted toasty crisp and crunchy) with potatoes (and rosemary) – moist and sweet, delicious and unusual.  The bill was 56 €.  As far as I was concerned, whoever reviewed this place for the Slow Food folks was spot on.  It embodied all the principles of the Slow Food movement, good seasonal product, honestly cooked food, pleasantly presented and justly priced.  Irony of ironies, after this fabulous meal and on the way home, we had another bad spat, but it never altered the two-hour experience in the restaurant or our sharp, fond memories of it. The moral, M. Bocuse: is that a cigar may not always be a cigar. Our favorite (just 700 miles southeast):  Tram Tram Via dei Reti 44/46 (no Metro nearby but a tram of course) T: 06.49.04.16 Closed Mondays A la carte 25-30 €.  ©2007 John A. Talbott  
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